Never know what to plant together? The next step to plant privacy trees is to determine how many of your chosen tree you will need. This is how I determined it:. The third step is to draw a little map of your yard. This is an important step when you plant privacy trees. Simply dividing the distance by the amount of trees could give you a fractioned number. Or, you may need to slightly adjust your spacing to get a divisible number.
These are rows of Emerald Greens from all over my neighborhood. This is from my personal experience rather than a textbook, though. They are typically weaker and more prone to disease than trees that grow slowly. Pretty much always, a fast growing tree will have a shorter lifespan than one that grows slowly or at a moderate rate. The easiest way to do this is to stake out the distance marking where the center of each tree will go. This will keep you on track so that your trees are in a nice straight line if you want them to be in a straight line, of course.
Plant your arborvitae privacy trees so that the root ball is level with the ground surface; maybe a tiny bit above, but never below. By measuring the height of the root ball you know how deep to dig your hole. Next, measure the width of your root ball. When you plant privacy trees, use a pick or sharp shovel to dig up the soil, and a tape measure to make sure I was getting to the right width and depth.
Once the hole was the right size, I put some water into the hole mixed with some miracle grow, and moved my tree burlap and all into the hole. Now, there is a little controversy surrounding whether you should remove the burlap or not. I decided to leave it on. But I did cut all of the twine and remove that once the tree was positioned.
That way, the top of the root ball is exposed from above and the tree can receive water more easily. Pull the burlap off the root a bit once your tree is positioned in the hole.
That way, your tree can receive water from above. You can also completely remove the burlap from the tree. But, loosing but leaving the burlap in-tact was the advice of both the nursery staff and my arborist friend. Time to plant your tree. Use a broom to gently brush off heavy, wet snow before it has a chance to accumulate. Some types of arborvitae, especially those that put out two or more leaders, may need to be staked to keep them upright. Storm-damaged arborvitaes can often be rejuvenated by pulling the drooping branches upright with ties and pruning off broken limbs.
See these winter care tips from the University of Illinois Extension. One reason why arborvitaes are so popular is because they are rarely troubled by insect and disease problems.
However, they may succumb to needle and twig blight caused by fungal attack, especially if air circulation is inhibited by crowding plants too closely together. To control blight, prune off all affected branches and treat with a fungicide.
Also watch out for bagworms, which like to feed on the foliage of arborvitaes and other evergreens. Spider mites and stem canker can also be problems. See more deer-resistant plants. Arborvitaes are often pruned into spiral topiaries.
Arborvitaes will retain their natural shape as they mature, and regular pruning usually isn't necessary. They will tolerate more frequent and heavier pruning if shaped into formal hedges and topiaries. Follow these tips for best results:. Here are some additional tips from The Morton Arboretum on the best methods for pruning arborvitaes and other evergreens. Featuring dark green foliage in winter, this selection is also resistant to winter burn.
This tiny evergreen doesn't need any pruning to keep its tight, rounded shape. Add a splash of yellow to small gardens, containers, or perennial beds. A unique evergreen with cheerful yellow, soft foliage. It's natural pyramid shape doesn't require pruning and adds structure to the garden. Considered more deer resistant than Thuja occidenalis specimens. The neat, rounded habit and evergreen foliage add year-round structure and formality to landscapes and containers.
This cultivar retains its attractive teardrop shape naturally with green foliage year-round, bringing structure and interest to winter gardens. Until one year the deer got very hungry and ate it all! We did try again The deer love Arborvitae!! And, I guess, we didn't mind all that much My husband always said We live in Florida now and will always miss NE and the changing seasons. Happy Thanksgiving! Probably everyone with a garden has some arborvitae already but if not, get some!
Plan on 5 to 7 years for maximum height and width. Rarely will you need to prune, if at all. Once established, they are nearly care free. I haven't fertilized them at all but reading the article, I suppose I could. I give a nice, long drink with a slow running hose near the base of each tree 2 or 3 times a season if it's on the dry side, maybe 5 minutes each. Spiders and spider mites, as mentioned, do seem to like making them home. I leave the spiders alone, they are harmless.
Had spider mites twice, but not this year. The solution is very easy, just spray down each tree a few times per summer. They are classic along a fence or a single tree in a corner, etc. I do clean out debris from underneath in spring and fall so the trunk isn't smothered - leaf blower makes it easy.
As with anything, tend carefully the first year after planting. Once established, they're usually good to go. Skip to main content. Below are two common methods for spacing arborvitae — single row and staggered. Single row plantings will require a smaller planting bed, but may take longer to give you full coverage due to the gaps between the plants.
Staggered rows, on the other hand, will give you more immediate coverage, but will require a deeper planting bed and can results in gaps between plants when not viewed from straight ahead.
How should I plant arborvitae? Please refer to our planting detail sheet available at the registers and on our website. Tip: If planting in a low area that sometimes has standing water, install the arbs a little higher than normal.
By raising the root ball out of any possible standing water you give the plants a much better chance of survival. Should I add anything to the soil when I install arborvitae? Chicagoland soil typically has lots of clay and even gravel in some areas with a thin layer of top soil. Because of this, amending the soil is extremely important when installing ANY plant material — not just arbs.
A mixture of top soil and One Step soil conditioner are vital to give plants a good start.
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