Now that your mask frame is complete it's time to build the visor. Take your clear plastic sheet and cut it to the size that you will need to completely cover the visor area of your mask. Once you've cut out the shape of the visor you can tint it using your tint-spray to complete the visor. Don't cut the visor to the exact size of the mask.
Attach the tinted visor to the helmet. After your visor has been cutout, tinted, and dried you can attach it to your mask. You will be attaching it to the inside of your mask using your hot glue gun or other adhesive.
Gluing it to the inside of your mask will help hide the glue and keep your masking looking clean. The visor is attached on the inside of your mask.
Apply your adhesive inside the mask, around the edge where the hole for the visor is. Stick the visor to the inside of the mask by placing it so that it comes in contact with your glue. Putting the visor on the inside of your helmet will help keep its visible lines clean and flush with the outside of the mask. You can also place your visor in the mask and then tape it in place.
Program your LED belt buckle. Before you install your LED belt buckle you will need to program it. Programming your LED belt buckle will allow you to display anything you might want to when your mask is being worn.
Think about programming in some of your favorite lyrics or other Daft Punk icons. Each LED belt buckle will come with it's own programming instructions. Many LED belt buckles will allow for a number of words to be programmed into them.
Attach the LED belt buckle to the visor. The last step in completing your helmet it to attach the LED belt buckle to your visor. Tape the LED belt buckle to the inside center of your visor. This will allow any programmed text or images to be seen through the visor, completing your Daft Punk mask.
Put your helmet on and see how it looks. You should be able to see the LEDs through the front of the visor. You won't be able to see directly through the LED buckle. However, you will still be able to see through the rest of the visor just fine.
Make any adjustments that you might need to. Method 2. Measure your head. Before you start building Guy Manuel's helmet you will want to measure your head. This will allow you to know what sizes your components will be and will ensure your mask fits. Measure your head carefully to avoid problems, allowing you to wear it comfortably once the mask is finished. There are a few measurements that you will need to take in order to get you started. Measure the circumference of your head.
Use a cloth tape measure, looping it around the area of your head where a hat would rest, to get your head's circumference. Measure the length between the tip of your nose to the back of your head. You can use a standard ruler for this. Take a measurement between the top of your shoulder ridge and the top of your head.
Use a standard ruler to measure the width of your head. This should be the distance between your temples. Record your measurements and use them to properly size the pieces of your helmet. Before you can get started building your Daft Punk helmet you will need to gather your materials.
It's important that you gather all the materials from the following list as you will be making use of all of them: Metallic gold spray paint and gold vinyl sheets. Clear acrylic globe. Heat gun. Something to cut with. Battery powered rainbow Christmas lights. LED belt buckle or name-tag Plastic lids. For example, you can use a lid from a peanut butter jar. Card stock or foam to build the sides of the mask.
Wood glue to make the craft foam sturdy. Hot glue to hold things together. Speaker wires. Dark smoke headlight tint-spray. Cut and mold the acrylic globe. The acrylic globe will be used to create the visor of your mask. You will need to cut the globe to a certain shape and then bend it using a heat gun. This will create the proper shape and curvature of this Daft Punk mask visor.
Stretch this piece using a heat gun so that it matches the shape of Guy's mask. Spray your visor with black car window tint-spray. Build a simple aluminum frame. Cut out some strips of aluminum that will be used to build a basic frame for your mask. The frame won't be visible when the mask is finished.
The frame is used to to hold things together while you work to build the rest of mask. You will only need two strips of aluminum to build your frame. Cut another strip for the top and sides of the frame. Hold the frame together with glue. Attach your visor to the frame with glue. Make sure the measurements of this frame will fit the proportions of your head.
The frame will be the main part that needs to fit your head. Build the sides of the mask. To build the sides of the mask you will be cutting out layers of either foam or card-stock. These layers will form the shape of the mask as well as add support and strength to the mask's structure. Take your time and cut out shapes that closely match the shape of the original helmet, gluing them together to build the sides of the mask. You can try layering card-stock to build the sides of the mask to the shape you want.
Once you have built the sides of your mask you can attach them to the frame using glue. Color the mask gold. Now that your mask is assembled you can begin to add the metallic gold color to it.
You will first need to spray paint the mask before applying the metallic gold vinyl sheets. Spray the mask with the gold metallic paint first. Make sure you've covered it completely. Once painted, apply the gold vinyl to finish the metallic look. Add the lights. The lights will be added to the inside of the mask, using tape so that you can adjust them or remove them later on.
Keep the following tips in mind when creating your mask's lights: [7] X Research source Rainbow Christmas lights can work for the sides. Place the lights in a column with their noses touching and hold this strip together with a tape backing. Attach the lights to the inside of your mask using tape or magnets. Make sure your lights are all battery powered. Add the wires. Guy's mask has a bundle of wires that are visible at the back. Adding these wires will be the finishing touch on your own mask.
These wires should be cut to a length that covers the back portion of the mask and can be attached using hot glue or other adhesive. Make sure none of the wires are overlapping each other.
Try to find wires that have a colorful outer coating. Method 3. Make some Daft Punk gloves. Part of the Daft Punk costume is the metallic plated gloves. This detail can really help make your own costume stand out and look authentic. Try the following steps to create a basic Daft Punk glove: [9] X Research source Get a simple, all black pair of gloves.
Cut out pieces of foam or clay for the metallic segments. Paint these segments with gold or silver metallic finishes. Attach them to your gloves with hot glue. Make the Daft Punk necklace. Daft Punk have been known to wear a simple triangle as an amulet during their concerts. This Instructable will detail the process of creating your very own Thomas Bangalter Daft Punk helmet. While this tutorial may seem specific to Thomas Bangalter's helmet in particular, there are many processes involved within that will be helpful to anyone looking to get into prototype making as well as some electronic work.
A few caveats beforehand: While the methods I employ here were able to furnish me with a finished helmet, I am in no way saying these are absolutes! In the end, the best processes to follow are those which you are most comfortable working with, so if there is something here that seems easier to do in your own way, by all means feel free to modify the process to your preferred flavor of building.
I should also note that this is a complicated and lengthy process. The final result took me a little over 4 months to realize, so anyone looking to follow a similar path, be prepared to be in it for the long haul! That said, this is only my second helmet project. If you're more familiar with electronics, casting, moldmaking, or just plain have more freetime than me, your results may vary.
This project encompasses elements of sculpting, mold making, casting, soldering, electronic design, and lots of good-old-fashioned sanding.
I am entering this Instructable in the 4th Epilog Challenge because, as you will see, having a laser cutter for some steps in this process would greatly improve the productivity speed!
I am an amateur propmaker by trade and, more recently, profession - having a laser cutter to expand the capabilities of my studio would allow for a whole wealth of new opportunities. Blueprinting: Before I begin any project, I spend a lot of time scouring online for reference images.
The gents from Daft Punk are a fairly elusive couple, and to add to the complexity of sourcing references, there have been a multitude of changes to their helmets over the course of their career.
I try to find as many images from profile and portrait views as possible before beginning my blueprints.
These illustrations form the basis of my projects, and are designed in Adobe Illustrator. Dimensions such as the overhead view can be extrapolated from two other viewpoints. Whether you decide to adhere strictly to the subject material or base your designs off of personal interpretation, reference blueprints are essential! These will keep you on track and make sure all elements of your project stay consistent and accurate during the course of your build.
Scaling: In order to scale these blueprints correctly, I open the blueprints in Illustrator, then import a picture of the wearer's head next to a ruler. After scaling the picture appropriately to the ruler's marked dimensions so that the scale of the person's head is , the blueprints are scaled and printed accordingly.
Often times you may have to take into account lens distortion or other factors depending on how the reference image was shot. Sometimes seeing the print just slightly larger or smaller can help determine what looks best.
A while ago my Dad rescued a roll-fed plotter from the dumpster of a local school and it now lives as my blueprinting machine. If this isn't an option, you can either try a local print shop, or scale your blueprints with registration marks to fit on normal sized paper.
Creations n Chrome Coat of Chrome. Enjoy your new helmet! One of the first things you're going to find out is that the brighter it is outside, the easier its going to be able to see while all the lights are on inside the helmet. Since you look through the gaps in the LED matrix in the clear subvisor, the ambient light thrown by the LEDs in full darkness may obscure everything you're trying to see!
This is another reason its a very good idea to have a switch accessible in case you want to turn the visor display off but keep the fans in the helmet running so you don't suffocate!
I was able to navigate convention areas and hotel lobbies at all hours of the day with no problems. Walking around outside at midnight with no ambient lighting though, and you're pretty blind when the matrix is illuminated.
Good luck with your builds! Thanks for reading, and best of luck on your builds! Participated in the Halloween Epic Costumes Challenge. Reply 8 months ago. Question 11 months ago. Awesome project and am going to give it a try. Can you tell me what mcd led's you used? Question 1 year ago. Hello there! I am finally building mine, but i have a big question Question 2 years ago. I am thirteen years old and looking for something to get my dad something for his birthday.
He would love one of these but I don't have a lot of money. Now I have to build one for myself as well, Dammit! Reply 5 years ago. There appears to be gaps between the LED's and since the visor is transparent it allows you to see through it in brightly illuminated areas, however as the article mentions if the LED's are turned on in a dark area you wont be able to see at all.
You could probably use surface mount LED's to put them right up against the visor so that no light goes back into the helmet if you wanted to see at night, however you would not get the same domed LED look.
I would suggest asking around locally or looking up to see if your city has a maker space or hacker space, I'm sure if you bought all the materials you could pay someone around that much for them to build it. Having a kit this specialized would be pretty expensive, I would advise just getting a couple of addressable LED light strips and cutting them to the correct length and using an arduino board or something similar to control them. You would still have to solder stuff but it would not take nearly as long and finding someone to help you program it will not be hard, it would only take me about 5 minutes to write a program to control such a display with simple animations or text.
Although since LED strips are surface mount or in otherwords instead of the lights being dome shaped they would be more flat you would not get exactly the same look, but it would still look good as well as the fact that you could get an RGB strip a led strip with red, green, and blue LEDs in each diode and have a multi colored display.
For the silicone Rebound 25 do you think I could get away with just using 2 of the trial kit or would I need the full gallon kit?!
Reply 6 years ago. By volpin Volpin Props Follow. More by the author:. The easiest way to break down a complex project like this one is to think of it in simple geometric forms. The helmet is really just a dome with two cylinders shoved in the side for ears, an extended faceted cylinder face for the visor, and three intersecting planes for the chin area.
We'll start with the dome. Cutting slots in the pieces to fit them together will assist in the steps to come. Slot the pieces on top of one another and use the wood glue to adhere them into place, then allow the glue to dry. Allow these to set for 24 hours. Once the glue on both the MDF form and the polystyrene foam has cured, glue the blocks into the MDF form with more gorilla glue.
Don't worry if it seeps out of the joints, it will all be sanded off soon. You're only trying to get the general shape now, so leave it kind of rough.
You can do this stage by hand, but the polystyrene foam tends to "tear" when hand sanding, so I recommend an orbital if you have access to one. This process will be very, very dusty! Wear a respirator! Orbital sander 50 or 80 grit sandpaper Recommended: Respirator and safety glasses. Time to get the shape a little more accurate, Chances are there are some dips and uneven parts to the foam, but we'll take care of that in this step.
Start out by mixing up some urethane resin and brushing a few coats over the top of your foam-and-MDF form. This application of resin serves two purposes: It gives us a strong base to sculpt and sand on top of, and it protects the polystyrene foam from chemicals that will dissolve it in the steps to come.
This will give your filler putty something to adhere to. Take your time with this, there's no need to slather on 30lbs of the stuff only to have to suffer sanding it all off later.
Make thin, smooth passes and sand them down as needed. Remember, the MDF "spines" in the base should be extracted form your blueprints, and represent the outermost edges of the helmet. You want to be able to see signs of these underneath the filler to make sure you're not making the base too large. It will take a little while to make perfect, but put in the time now because the results will be worth it!
Going back to the idea of simple intersecting geometric forms, now we add the visor, chin, and the "ear" recesses. Referencing the blueprints from the overhead perspective, plot out the shape of the visor onto. Note: The underside of the visor has the same basic shape, but looking at the blueprint's portrait perspective, you can see it is shorter along the side. Make sure to account for this here.
It will help in future steps if you scribe a center line onto both sections now, so you know where the symmetry line of your helmet sits pic 2 Using a set of dial calipers, measure the height of the visor on the blueprint.
Cut this dimension out of a long strip of styrene and trim into 1" sections. Superglue the 1" sections together to form "T" shapes, and use these to mount the upper and lower visor parts to one another. This will create the proper visor height.
Make sure to place these. Glue these to the lower styrene visor, making sure to align the center marks of the chin to the center marks of the visor. To get the proper angle on the chin sides, measure out from the center line to the left and right pieces - if the measurements are the same, you're symmetrical!
The uppermost point on the ear cutout is at the corner of the upper visor. Using a dremel tool with a rotary bit, first roughly trim this section out, then follow it by refining the recess with a sanding drum. After this recess is cut out, make a circular piece of styrene to fit into the hole to provide a flat, even base. For the ears, reference your blueprint and cut out four pieces of.
Glue these pieces together with woodglue, and clamp them to dry overnight. I work by getting the largest diameter laid in first, then using a dial caliper to measure out the distance in circumference changed form point to point. Work slowly, and stop regularly to take measurements.
Once the basic shape is complete, spray the puck with primer and allow to dry. MDF is a very porous material, so it may take a few coats to fully saturate your lathed piece. Much easier than trying to lathe an identical piece. Make sure to take your finished master and check fitment in the ear recessed carved in step 4. The visor area now needs to be blended into the main dome of the helmet. For this, a similar technique from step 2 of bondo and foam will be used.
Going back to the blueprints, measure the height of the visor bevel above and below the styrene piece from step 4. I marked these areas on the helmet by using a dial caliper and cutting a recess into the dome, then inserting a styrene ridge. Instead, add a crescent shape of polystyrene foam and sand it to match the bevel of the visor areas. Now that the visor frame is secured in place, take a piece of styrene that matches the height of the frame, and lay it across these shapes, making the curved visor front panel.
At this point, you can also add the trapezoid shaped side panels in front of the ear cutouts. For these, make a paper template first, as the dimensions will be a bit tricky to get right from your blueprints. Trim them from. Leave the very ends of the visor above the ears unfilled for now.
Sand and re-skim with more thin passes of bondo as needed until the visors are smooth and even. This is a 2-part, air dry, non toxic clay that has about a 40 minute working time, giving you plenty of opportunity to get the shape nice and precise. Acrylic paint will also work Tools needed: Dremel tool Rotary cutting tool for dremel 80, , grit sandpaper Sanding block Clay sculpting tools Recommended: Respirator and safety glasses.
At this point, there's going to be some cleanup needed. To get a better view of areas that need smoothing, paint your helmet master with a coat of primer. Making the entire piece one color will make it easier to see issues like slight indentations in the dome surface.
Measure the opening on your blueprints and create a. I used a drill bit to open up an area in the front of the helmet for this to fit, but a dremel rotary tool would work just as well. Embed the mouth box into the helmet, then fill the gaps with bondo and sand flush. It would be better to have done this in your blueprints before I forgot to! When scribing lines, its often easier to lay down a stripe of tape first to use as a guide.
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